Question 1

When is it best to lay turf?

Accepted Answer

Yes, turf can be laid all year round, although its growth is dependent upon certain factors. Whenever turf is laid, it must stay damp until it has rooted into the soil below (usually allow 2 weeks). During the summer months, turf must be laid immediately, and must be watered within half an hour of installation and then twice daily, both early morning and late evening for approximately one hour. Turf laid during the winter is slower to establish, as ground temperature drops and frosts arrive, therefore you will have to wait longer before you can use your new lawn.

Question 2

What are the environmental benefits of turf?

Accepted Answer

Please refer to the Turf Growers Association for guidance on this issue: https://turfgrass.co.uk/2020/09/30/the-benefits-of-turf/

Question 3

What is the ideal turf specification?

Accepted Answer

The turf we supply is grown to the following Turf Growers Association standards:

1.1 To be grown by a member of the Turfgrass Growers Association (TGA), supplied to the TGA Standard for Cultivated Turf.

1.2 Typical seed mixture used in turf for general landscaping:
• 20-40% dwarf perennial ryegrass
• 30-50% slender creeping red fescue
• 10-25% chewings fescue
• 10-30% smooth-stalked meadowgrass

Cultivars of the above species should be chosen from the current STRI Turfgrass Seed booklet.

1.3 Soil type: the soil in which the turf was grown should match as closely as possible the soil on which it will be laid.

1.4 Turf size: turf shall be supplied in either small rolls or big rolls. Small rolls will be 600mm wide and 1.65m long – total area 1m². Big rolls can be supplied in a variety of sizes, to be agreed in advance.

1.5 General health of turf: the sward must be green and must not be visibly affected by any pest or disease.

1.6 Cutting height: the height of the sward when harvested should not exceed 35mm.

1.7 Thickness of thatch or fibre: the thickness of uncompressed thatch should be between 5 and 15mm.

1.8 Thickness of soil: the soil layer beneath the thatch should be between 5 and 15mm deep.

Question 4

What are the different types of turf?

Accepted Answer

Please refer to the Turf Growers Association guide on this issue: https://turfgrass.co.uk/2020/09/30/commonly-found-grasses/

Question 5

What if the area is shady?

Accepted Answer

In general, grass grows better in full light than in shade. Adjust the height of your mower so that the grass is longer in the shady area of the lawn. This enables the extra leaf to trap as much light as it can.

In this case, we recommend using Endurance turf, our specially developed drought-tolerant turf. This grows much better in the shade and can withstand dry conditions. Endurance turf has a very deep root system, and when managed correctly, can hold its vibrant green colour better than any other type of grass. This is important because shady areas are often dry too.

However please be aware that areas of low sunlight and poor drainage can still cause even the hardiest of turf to perish.

Question 6

What do I need to do first before laying turf?

Accepted Answer

1. At least 100mm topsoil is required for healthy growth of grass. Where there is no subsoil, at least 300mm of topsoil is required.

2. Supply and spread pre-turfing fertiliser over the area to be turfed.

3. Lightly cultivate, harrow and rake topsoil into a fine tilth suitable for final grading.

4. Remove all extraneous material including all debris and perennial weeds, and all surface stones in excess of 35mm.

5. Rake to a true, even, consolidated surface. To avoid compaction do not work with wet soil.

Question 7

How should I lay turf?

Accepted Answer

1. Start laying the turf along a straight side, butting the ends closely together. On subsequent rows, stagger the joints like brickwork, making sure that there are no gaps.

2. If you need to adjust the position of the turf after unrolling, always push it rather than pulling it to avoid stretching.

3. Work from planks laid on the newly laid turf to avoid making footprints.

4. Make sure that there is complete contact between the underside of the turf and the topsoil. If necessary, tamp or roll the turf lightly as you go along.

5. Try not to leave any gaps between the turfs, but if they do occur they should be filled with topsoil and lightly firmed.

Question 8

What are the watering guidelines for new turf?

Accepted Answer

1. Water immediately after laying.

2. The first watering should ensure that the soil is damp to a depth of 100mm. Keep the turf, and the soil under it, damp – you can check this by turning up a corner of the turf.

3. Do not over-water the turf. Over-watering will create boggy conditions and promote grass diseases.

4. In the days following, water only in the morning and early evening.

5. Water less and less frequently over the first 28 days. The turf should never be allowed to dry out and go brown in this period.

The Turf Growers Association offers a great guide to aid you with this important part of lawn maintenance: https://turfgrass.co.uk/2020/10/02/code-of-practice-for-watering-newly-laid-turf/

Question 9

Do I need fertiliser for my new lawn?

Accepted Answer

An application of Pre-Turf Fertiliser will help speed up establishment of your new lawn and is highly recommended. Like most plants, you will get better results from your lawn if you feed it.

To give your new lawn the best possible start, use fertiliser sparingly over the prepared ground, lightly rake it in, lay your turf on top and water it. Only use the correct quantity as per the instructions on the box. Do be careful as too much fertiliser can damage grass.

Specific seasonal fertiliser is available to have delivered with your fresh turf orders or collect from our depots.

Question 10

What do the numbers on a fertiliser bag mean (N-P-K)?

Accepted Answer

The three numbers represent the percentage of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). Nitrogen drives leaf growth and green colour, phosphorus supports root development, and potassium builds resistance to drought, cold, and disease.

Question 11

When is the best time to fertilise my lawn?

Accepted Answer

The ideal time depends on your grass type, typically starting in late spring when soil temperatures reach about 12°C to 13°C, with regular feedings scheduled through summer and autumn.

Question 12

Should I water my lawn after fertilising?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Skipping the post-application watering is one of the most common mistakes, as water helps activate the fertiliser and washes it off the grass blades into the soil.

Question 13

How long do I need to keep kids and pets off the lawn?

Accepted Answer

You should wait for the fertiliser to be properly watered in and completely dry, usually following a 24-hour rule of thumb after irrigation or rainfall, depending on the specific product instructions.

Question 14

How do I know what nutrients my lawn needs?

Accepted Answer

You should conduct a soil test before applying any fertiliser rather than guessing or assuming the lawn just needs more "food".

Question 15

What happens if I overfeed or over-apply fertiliser?

Accepted Answer

Over-fertilising can cause "lawn burn", excessive weak leaf growth at the expense of roots, increased susceptibility to turf diseases, and environmental nutrient runoff.

Question 16

Will lawn fertiliser fill in bare patches?

Accepted Answer

No. Fertiliser helps existing grass grow thicker, but it will not fix large bare spots. Those require overseeding or patching.

Question 17

Pink patches in my lawn

Accepted Answer

Pink patches can be a sign of a fungal disease. Please refer to the Turf Growers Association guide on this issue: https://turfgrass.co.uk/2020/09/30/pink-patches-in-your-lawn/

Question 18

Brown or orange patches in my lawn

Accepted Answer

Brown or orange patches can indicate rust disease or drought stress. Please refer to the Turf Growers Association guide on this issue: https://turfgrass.co.uk/2020/09/30/brown-or-orange-patches-in-your-lawn/

Question 19

Weed grasses in my lawn

Accepted Answer

Weed grasses can invade and affect the appearance of your lawn. Please refer to the Turf Growers Association guide on this issue: https://turfgrass.co.uk/2020/09/30/weed-grasses-in-your-lawn/

Question 20

Bugs and insects in my lawn

Accepted Answer

Bugs and insects can sometimes cause damage to lawns. Please refer to the Turf Growers Association guide on this issue: https://turfgrass.co.uk/2020/09/30/bugs-and-insects-in-your-lawn/

Question 21

Mushrooms in my newly laid turf

Accepted Answer

Mushrooms or toadstools often appear in newly laid turf, especially after warm, damp weather. They are feeding on the organic matter in the turf's growing medium or on buried roots, timber or compost below, so they are a sign the turf is breaking that material down, not a sign the turf is failing.

They are usually harmless to the grass and normally stop appearing within a few weeks to a couple of months as the turf knits into your soil and the organic matter is used up.

What to do:

1. Knock them off with a brush, fork or boot before mowing, rather than mowing over them, so the spores are not spread across the lawn.

2. Dispose of them rather than leaving them on the lawn, and never eat any mushroom growing in a lawn.

3. Keep children and pets away from them until they have been removed, as some species are toxic.

4. Aerate the area and improve drainage if the ground stays wet, as mushrooms thrive in damp, compacted or poorly drained soil.

Do not use fungicides. They will not remove the mushrooms and can harm the beneficial fungi that help your turf establish.

Frequently Asked Questions

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🔍Common Issues

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